3 Days in Kyoto (Nov 2026): Autumn Leaves + Tax-Free Rules

This plan is for first-timers who reach Kyoto in late November 2026: one area a day, with Higashiyama, then Arashiyama, then Fushimi Inari and Kurama–Kibune. From 1 November the HARUKA visitor ticket to Kyoto rises to ¥2,700, but it still costs ¥100 less than the airport bus. Fares and hours checked on 26 Oct 2026 with each temple, JR West and the Japan Tourism Agency.

Late November is the busiest time of year in Kyoto. The fix is simple: start early and go to the famous places first. Every day below has a timed table, with the time to arrive before the big crowds.

Trip at a Glance

When will the leaves peak?

Checked on 26 Oct 2026. Forecasters do not agree, so here are all three.

The city “maple date” comes from one observation tree, and it often comes later than the famous gardens. So the safest week this year is 24 November to 1 December. Try to avoid 21–23 November. Monday 23 November is a national holiday (Labor Thanksgiving Day), so Japanese visitors fill Kyoto for a 3-day weekend.

What’s New in 2026

Four rules changed this year. Most English guides still show the old ones.

Checked on 26 Oct 2026 with the Japan Tourism Agency, JR West and the City of Kyoto.

How the new tax refund works

• Spend at least ¥5,000 (before tax) in one shop on one day.
• Within 90 days of buying, show your passport at a customs kiosk at your departure airport. Do this before you check in your bags, and keep all the goods with you.
• At Kansai, Narita, Haneda, Chubu, Fukuoka, New Chitose and Naha airports, you can do this step online in Visit Japan Web, on the departure-lobby Wi-Fi.
• The shop or its refund company sends the money back. Methods vary by shop: bank, card, app or cash at the airport. Ask how when you pay.
• One missing item cancels the whole receipt. Food or cosmetics you used up in Japan get no refund.

A quick example: an item marked ¥10,000 plus 10% tax. You pay ¥11,000 at the shop. After the customs check, you can get up to ¥1,000 back, minus any fee your refund company charges.

Not yet: Kyoto plans different city-bus fares for residents and visitors (visitors ¥350–400) from fiscal year 2027. In November 2026 the bus fare is still a flat ¥230.

Itinerary Overview

The plan assumes you sleep in Kyoto and arrive the night before Day 1.

Day 1 · Higashiyama

Morning: Kiyomizu-dera and the old lanes

Kiyomizu-dera opens at 6:00, so 7:15 is still quiet. In autumn, buses 100 and 206 usually fill up from mid-morning, so an early bus is the easy one. If you stay in Gion, you can also walk.

Walk down Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka before the shops open. Then go on to Yasaka Shrine and Gion. In Gion, some small lanes off Hanamikoji are private. Follow the signs, and do not enter where they say no.

Afternoon: Nanzen-ji

Evening: Eikando night light-up

The official page does not mention advance booking, so you queue at the gate. Day and night are separate visits, so a night ticket does not cover the day. Prefer Kiyomizu-dera at night? Swap: do Eikando by day at 9:00, and go to Kiyomizu-dera in the evening between 21 and 30 November.

Day 2 · Arashiyama & Sagano

Morning: Bamboo Grove and Tenryu-ji

The Bamboo Grove is free and always open, and at 7:00 it is quiet. From 14 to 30 November, Tenryu-ji opens its garden early, at 7:30. That puts you inside the best maple garden in Arashiyama before the tour groups come.

Late morning: Sagano and lunch

Walk north through the quiet Sagano lanes to Jojakko-ji, a hillside temple under maples. Then come back down to Togetsukyo Bridge by about 10:00. By late morning, the main street near the bridge is very crowded.

Evening: your choice

Day 3 starts at 6:30, so an early night is a good idea. If you still have energy, take the Kiyomizu-dera night viewing (21–30 November, open until 21:30).

Day 3 · Fushimi Inari, Tofuku-ji & Kurama–Kibune

Dawn: Fushimi Inari

The shrine has no gate and no ticket. You can walk the torii tunnels at any hour (free). Go up as far as the Yotsutsuji (四ツ辻) viewpoint, then come back. That takes about 90 minutes. The full loop to the summit takes 2–3 hours, which would break this day.

Morning: Tofuku-ji at opening time

Tofuku-ji’s bridge, Tsutenkyo, is the most crowded maple view in Kyoto. The temple itself warns of heavy crowds in autumn. It is only one Keihan stop from Fushimi Inari, so you can be at the gate before it opens at 8:30. Later in the day you join the full crowd, and the last entry is 16:00.

On the bridge, staff may ask you not to stop for photos in autumn. Tripods are never allowed. Take your photo of the bridge from the side, then walk on.

Midday: Kurama by the maple tunnel train

The Eizan Railway runs slowly through a “maple tunnel” between Ichihara and Ninose. From 7 November to 6 December 2026, that stretch is lit up after dark too. An autumn timetable runs from 9 November to 11 December.

There is also a mountain path from Kurama-dera over to Kibune. It was listed as open in June 2026. Ask at the gate whether it is open today before you take it instead of the train and bus.

Afternoon to evening: Kibune

The lantern-lined steps look best in the evening. After 24 November there is no light-up, so you can leave earlier. On the way back, the maple tunnel is lit up from the train.

Prefer Ohara? Swap the afternoon: Kyoto Bus 17 runs from Kyoto Station to Ohara (大原) in about 1 hour, and Sanzen-in is the main temple there. Check the Sanzen-in fee at the gate. We could not confirm it on an official page.

If You Have One More Day

Getting There & Around

Getting around Kyoto

• ICOCA card: ¥2,000, including a ¥500 deposit you get back. You must pay cash for it.
• City buses: flat ¥230 a ride. The Subway & Bus 1-Day Pass is ¥1,100, so it pays off only with five or more bus rides. This plan uses trains most of the time.
• In leaf season, buses to Higashiyama and Arashiyama get very full. Take Keihan, the JR Nara Line, the JR Sagano Line or the Tozai subway instead.
• Check the City of Kyoto’s congestion forecast for your dates. It rates crowds by place and hour on a 5-step scale.

Where to Stay

Budget

Per person for 3 days, checked fares and fees only. Hotel rooms and most meals are not included. $1 ≈ ¥157 (26 Oct 2026).

• Trains & buses: Day 1 ¥680 (bus ¥230, subway ¥220, bus ¥230). Day 2 ¥480 (JR ¥240 × 2). Day 3 about ¥2,490: JR ~¥150, Keihan ¥180 + ¥300, Eizan Railway counted at ¥470 × 3 (the most it can cost), and ¥450 back to Kyoto Station.
• Temple fees, budget: Kiyomizu-dera ¥500, Nanzen-ji Hojo ¥600, Eikando night ¥1,000, Tenryu-ji garden ¥500, Jojakko-ji ¥500, Tofuku-ji Tsutenkyo ¥1,000, Kurama-dera ¥500. Mid-range adds Tenryu-ji halls ¥300, Tofuku-ji Hojo ¥600 and Nanzen-ji Sanmon ¥600.
• The ¥3,000 departure tax is already in your air ticket.

Entry & Money Checklist

• [ ] Visa: US, UK and Australian passport holders need no visa for tourist stays up to 90 days. You can’t do paid work.
• [ ] Passport: valid for your whole stay, with a blank page for the entry stamp (GOV.UK).
• [ ] Visit Japan Web: register before you fly, and use its QR code for immigration and customs.
• [ ] Cash: carry some yen. Cards are common but not everywhere. 7-Eleven and Japan Post ATMs often take foreign cards. ICOCA and Todai-ji take cash only.
• [ ] Tax-free: keep the receipts and goods in your carry-on. Go to the customs kiosk before check-in, within 90 days of buying.
• [ ] Departure tax: check your air ticket shows ¥3,000 (¥1,000 if it was issued by 30 June 2026).
• [ ] Read your government’s advice before you go: travel.state.gov (US) · GOV.UK (UK) · Smartraveller (Australia).

FAQ

Is late November too late for Kyoto’s leaves in 2026?

No. This year it is the right time. Weathernews says Arashiyama will peak from about 24 November, and the city maple forecast is about 11 December. On 26 October every famous spot was still green.

Do I need a rail pass for this plan?

No. All the trains and buses on Days 1–3 add up to about ¥3,650. A ¥1,100 bus day pass or the ¥2,100 Kurama–Kibune pass would cost you more on this route.

I fly home from Tokyo. Can I still get my tax refund?

Yes. You get it at your departure airport, within 90 days of buying. Narita and Haneda also let you do the customs step in Visit Japan Web.

Do I need to book Eikando’s night light-up?

The official 2026 page does not mention booking. You buy a ticket at the gate between 17:30 and 20:30. Come at 17:15 to stand near the front of the queue.

The best move this week: book a room for 24 November–1 December, and buy your HARUKA ticket online before 1 November to save ¥500.

Sources: Japan Tourism Agency – tax-free · Tax-free FAQ · International Tourist Tax (PDF) · City of Kyoto – accommodation tax · JR West – HARUKA · Kansai Airport Transportation – Kyoto bus · JR West – ICOCA · Weathernews · tenki.jp Kyoto · nippon.com forecast · Kiyomizu-dera · Eikando 2026 · Nanzen-ji · Tenryu-ji · Tofuku-ji · Fushimi Inari access · Eizan Railway · Keihan – Kurama–Kibune pass · Kurama-dera · Kifune Shrine · Byodo-in · Todai-ji · Kyoto congestion forecast · GOV.UK – Japan entry · Embassy of Japan in Australia (Brisbane) · Consulate-General of Japan in San Francisco · Fares from ekitan.com (checked 26 Oct 2026. Hours and prices can change; the temple or operator’s own notice comes first.)